Delhi, a city pulsating with history, serves not only as the capital of India but also as a melting pot of diverse cultures and cuisines. My recent food walk from Lajpat Nagar to Jungpura was not just a gastronomic odyssey but a journey interwoven with historical anecdotes with INTACH.
As I tread through the bustling lanes, the aroma of spices and the resonance of bygone eras accompanied me, creating an unforgettable experience.
Lajpat Nagar: The Little Kabul
My expedition commenced at Mazar Restaurant in Lajpat Nagar, an enclave known for its vibrant markets and eclectic mix of communities. Little Kabul, nestled within Lajpat Nagar, is a testament to the city’s assimilation of Afghan culture. The historical ties between India and Afghanistan have left an indelible mark on Delhi’s culinary landscape.
Initially designated for refugees from Pakistan in 1947, this area, particularly Lajpat Nagar 2, found itself at the crossroads of destiny once again. Decades later, tens of thousands of Afghans sought refuge here during the tumultuous Cold War, escaping the torment of Russia’s invasion.
Nestled in what was once a predominantly Punjabi colony, this enclave has metamorphosed into a haven for the Afghan diaspora. Walking a few kilometers from the central market, I entered a world unknown and unexpected. The stark distinction between this pocket and the rest of Lajpat Nagar was unmissable – here, women adorned in abayas and men donning pathani suits composed the vibrant crowd, in stark contrast to the neighboring locality where shops brimmed with traditional Indian wear.
It was a poignant reminder of how this dynamic city has not only absorbed waves of migration but also seamlessly woven its narratives into its ever-evolving fabric.
Chicken and Mutton Afghani Pulao at Mazar Restaurant:
I indulged in the Chicken and Mutton Afghani Pulao, a dish that transcends borders with its fragrant rice, loaded with raisins and succulent meat. Matu, mutton dumplings adorned with curd and Channa Dal, added a delightful twist to my culinary journey.
Jungpura: Unveiling the ‘Young-Pura’ Afghan Food Journey
As I traversed through the bustling streets, I approached Jungpura, once known as Young-pura. The nomenclature traces its roots back to the early 20th century when Delhi’s Deputy Commissioner, Mr. Young, left an enduring legacy in the form of this neighborhood. The interplay of an old naming tradition, land acquisition for New Delhi’s construction, and colloquial adaptations gave rise to the name Jangpura.
Afghan Street Food Extravaganza: A Culinary Sojourn
Crossing over the Lajpat Nagar railway station, my food adventure continued into the heart of Jungpura’s Afghan street food haven, following the footsteps of the INTACH.
Afghani Potato Bolani: The sizzle of hot Afghani Potato Bolani marked the beginning of my culinary escapade in Jungpura. A stuffed flatbread fried to perfection with a delectable potato filling, this dish was a symphony of flavors.
Crispy Flatbread and Chapli Kebab: Following the trail of enticing aromas, I savored crispy flatbreads, devoid of stuffing, paired with a steaming cup of tea. The journey reached its zenith with Chapli Kebab, a spiced patty distinguished by its melt-in-your-mouth tenderness. The inclusion of dried pomegranate seeds and coarsely ground coriander seeds added a distinctive crunch, elevating the culinary experience.
Sweet Respite: Baklava, Kunafa, and Afghani Chai
A gastronomic journey is incomplete without a sweet denouement. I treated my palate to the exotic allure of Baklava and Kunafa, transcending culinary boundaries into the realm of Turkish delights. The journey concluded on a soothing note with Afghani chai(more like a Green Tea) enhanced with a few drops of lemon.
Epilogue: A Culinary Tapestry Woven in History
As I retraced my steps, the echoes of history lingered in the air. The fusion of Afghan culinary traditions with Delhi’s vibrant fabric showcased the city’s remarkable ability to embrace diversity. The renaming of Jungpura from Young-pura echoed the stories of Delhi’s past, where the layers of time had gracefully melded into the present.
A Feast for My Senses and Soul
My food walk from Lajpat Nagar to Jungpura was not merely a gastronomic expedition; it was an exploration of Delhi’s cultural mosaic through its delectable offerings. From the savory delights of Afghani Pulao to the aromatic charm of Chapli Kebab and the sweet indulgence of Baklava, every bite resonated with the city’s history and its vibrant present. As the sun set on my culinary sojourn, I left with a satiated palate and an enriched soul, carrying the flavors of Delhi’s past and present in my heart.